The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in City Spaces

Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.

This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round mauve grapes on a rambling allotment situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city downtown.

"I've seen people hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from four discreet city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout the city. The project is sufficiently underground to have an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Wine Gardens Across the World

To date, the grower's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand vines overlooking and within the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them all over the globe, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards assist cities remain greener and more diverse. They protect land from construction by establishing long-term, productive agricultural units inside urban environments," says the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who tend the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, environment and history of a urban center," adds the president.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Collective Efforts Throughout the City

Additional participants of the group are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 plants. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."

Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established more than one hundred fifty vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually create quality, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing vintage."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the liquid," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a fence on

Danielle Burnett
Danielle Burnett

A passionate gamer and content creator with years of experience in strategy guides and community engagement.